Whilst working in Paris last month at Rossano Ferretti s salon on the Rue Cambon, I finally confirmed to myself that French Brown is more than just a hair colour it’s a look. One that I hope will become more popular here in London.
Throughout my working life it has seemed that for many brunettes as they start to colour their hair they either go too dark, which is very harsh on the face or their brunette hair starts to have an orange cast – I understand how this happens but my question is does it have to happen,does every brunette who is a level 5 or 6 have to have hair that looks coloured, brassy and unnatural.
The answer of course
is no, but it seems that it is a common occurrence.
When a brunette has her hair coloured with a permanent colour the underlying pigment is revealed showing red – red/orange – orange underlying tones and it’s these tones that can end up making the hair colour look cheap or unnatural, something I certainly don’t want for my ladies
So the answer for me for brunettes has been amonia free colours, and low volume developers with permanent colours, obviously I couldn’t survive without my blue and green additives because
1-Blue cancels Orange
2-Green cancel Red
So if we follow the colour wheel
we should achieve a perfectly neutral brunette – but that’s not the end of the story.
A monochromatic brunette even if its neutral is not for me, and thats where the detailing comes in with balayage and Ombre.
I know I always say it – but foil highlights will only ruin an
all over colour, perfectly placed ultra fine weaves alter the colour. French Brown is in the detail – balayage placement dictated by the hair cut, never getting too close to the root & making sure the ends are lighter than the roots, not the other way round. Although there is a push for lighter pieces in darker bases, i really think the perfect French Brown is when the balayaged pieces are a maximum three shade lighter – perfect to say the least.
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