The cosmetics market has a huge range of products aimed at women over the age of 40 all claiming to to help with the effects of aging, I have a number of them and believe they work. Skincare companies are working hard on this market and haircolour companies are also producing great products that are softer gentler more luminous rather than the traditional opaque coverages of years gone by – but without the right technician a lady in her 40′s 50′s and 60′s can easily be made to look older,coloured and tired.
When I first meet a client and we get to talking colour, the first thing I want to find out is how she feels about the grey, whether she want to stay the same level, be lighter or darker and then what sort of commitment to her colour regime is ok with her.
its blending in the grey of up to 70% coverage but staying the same level then I usually go with my non amonia Dia Richesse demi colour range by L’oreal, its natural looking lasts 4-6 weeks, and on brunettes I will not get that 50 year old orange/brownhair colour that I see all over town.
If the percentages of the client or I want more out of the hair colour then I will choose INOA hair colour by L’oreal, it’s amonia free permenant haircolour – besides the fact that the technology is awesome and leaves the hair in better condition, that it has a beautiful range of colour choices,it also lacks that old lady opaque coverage feel, it covers beautifully, has shine and is luminous – both indicators of younger hair.
After making the choice of product then it’s tone selection generally speaking neutral and natural always looks softer and younger to me. Too much red or gold looks cheap and too much ash looks cold and flat. Thats not to mean that I pick neutral or natural shades only, its all about the natural underlying pigment and the level of lift. Saying that the colour charts have some amazing colours in them, not to be found in nature and generally not used by me on my ladies who want a natural youthful look – 40 plus ladies generally don’t want haircolour like Rhianna or Katy Perry or some other pop starlett but neither do they want to look like their mothers.
Application – it’s always balayage to give that natural sunkissed youthful feel – it really depends upon whats in front of me and what the client is looking for .in the application, heavy handed and sloppy apllications look exactly like they sound. For me there is nothing worse than monochromatic haircolour, I like to take some colour through leave some out so that we get soft looking contrast, sometimes I like to paint on lighter or darker pieces of colour with my favourite technique
Jacks tip – For that final natural sun kissed youthful colour just a few pieces of balayage (never foil) around the face always always make a lady feel fresher and brighter and looks amazing.