The difference between ombre and balayage

Many consumers can be confused by ombre and balayage, mainly because the lines are blurred and not all colourists know the difference . The number one rule for colorists should be “know your techniques” as there are so many and the consumer is know super informed on trends, so a basic understand of whats going on is so important and is what I would call the “pro difference”
Last year 442 trend where identified on social media , so putting your tools down at 6pm isn’t going to work, we all need to be doing our research after the day is done.
Ombre is a colour technique it means to shadow and goes from dark to light in a very soft graduation of color, no harsh lines anywhere. This technique works best on longer hair with few layers, and I always love to put a face frame of balayage arround the face for maximum Impact and to connect the whole look. Its done with Pre lightner and can be as soft or strong as you like as long as the transition from dark to light is seamless read more

A color clients expectations

For most of last year, when travelling and teaching one thing came up over and over gain, and that was managing the clients expectation, it didn’t matter the class or the level it was as if this was the biggest thing in the room. Last year I did write about the consultation you can read that here, but I do think this is something worth touching on so we can split clients into a few different groups, but before we do that, its important that we as an industry stand tall and proud, we are the ones who have the knowledge, been on the courses, up skilling all the time and we shouldn’t be afraid of a colour change or the word NO, if we feel its applicable. read more

four applications of Balayage

Classic Balayage pieces should be very close and soft at the root leading to a thicker highlight at the ends of the hair. Balayage is applied on the surface of the section and not saturated through the section until the very tips, otherwise you would have a streak of colour that isn’t very soft at all. It can also be called a freehand technique because no foil or meche is used to create the highlights, instead we use professional cling film to separate the layers which is much softer. Because it’s handpainted, your colourist can choose the placements to best complement your haircut, skin and features so it looks really natural rather than actually coloured. There’s no stripy look, it emulates what you would get naturally.
Balayage has evolved as people have experimented with it, and it now falls into different categories – creative, classic, micro, Californian, and this allows colourists to work in many different ways which gives them more creativity. New York Lights, the face framing technique is the most important for any age; it’s natural, beautiful and gives an instant lift. 6 pieces can make all the difference, it doesn’t have to be a headful of balayage to make an impact.
Classic Balayage is saturated at the ends and product is loaded in the mid-lengths, feathered up to the root and spread down over the surface of the section for a seamless finish.
Creative Balayage is saturated at the ends and product is loaded in the mid-lengths. The difference here is that whilst we spread the product down to the ends, we only feather slightly for a more subtle finish.
Micro Balayage is achieved by saturating the ends, loading product just above this and feathering up. California is a much heavier incarnation of this application; still very soft at the root but much more coverage. read more

The pro hair difference part 2

The Pro difference part 2
The other  month we where talking numbers, From decline in salon visits and how we under index in every colour except blonde to the shocking amount of women who feel they can get the same colour at home as the salon and those tricky mixers who do colour at home and in the salon .This month i’m going to share some ideas and thoughts on how to get women women back into the salon
Across all colour shades women have told us through a loreal professional survey that they want from colour, the biggest desire is that it looks natural, rich.even,different tones, subtle tones and many others but the stand out was natural read more

Balayage and smartbond

There have been may controversies over the bonding market in the UK especially over who was responsible for the final mix neither the colour houses or the bonding companies would take responsibility for the end product which left us the hairdressers responible and in a precarious position. With the help of The Hair Council and Just hair Insurance, Sophia Hilton and myself we finally managed to change that with some insurance companies,I myself have never been a fan of one size fits all and so I used them as stand alone treatments until L’oreal launched smartbond a bonding kit that had been tested on all its haircolour products finally it felt safe to use

I’ve been thrilled with the results, more shine,stronger feeling hair and clients have been loving it. Of course its brilliant in my prelightners for Balayage but also amazing in regular colour, because of the way it works their is less fade in colours which is brilliant and on those balayaged ends they feel stronger than ever. But like anything else its not a miracle if you wouldnt colour the hair inf front of you because its so damaged then dont think smartbond will make it okay, you will still need to focus on getting the hair back into good enough shape before attempting to colour and so your smartbond can be used as a stand alone treatment. You don’t need to increase the volume of developer or extend the development time, which is a huge thing for me and a win win for clients. read more