Officially its summer and i’m supposed to be taking it easy, well that’s another story, August is actually busy it seems i’m in a mad rush before my vacation, Its exciting times though. This week i’ll be teaching a 1-2-1 Balayage class and he’s flown in from Singapore for it, so the word is spreading . Im also working on a new format for my presentations its always good to have a look back and tweek it all, trying to make it all a little more digital, and i’m expanding, next year i’m meeting up with some other colourists and I will selecting 1 or 2 of them to train up with my method and then working together teaching balayage, so we can hold bigger classes and reach more people because at the moment I can’t meet the demand. Its wonderful to see my little dream grow.
As much as I like a balayage look all soft and natural, there is no denying that I love a cool white all over blonde, I don’t know about you but I seem to be doing a lot of them at the moment, and loving every one of them. The trick of course is getting the hair pre lightend up to a very very pale yellow and even, before then glazing . I love platinium for Balayage but prefer the new studio blonde powder lightner for an all over blonde . For me I use either 20 or 30 volume developer depending on the base colour and try to encourage clients to come back at monthly interval because as we all know as soon as you go over that half inch regrowth then its time for a long regrowth application which is time consuming and annoying.
It seems like there is some confusion out in the world about Balayage, Classic Balayage is a highlighting technique designed to create a very soft natural look. Balayage is a French word meaning to sweep or to paint. It allows for a sun-kissed natural looking hair colour similar to what nature gives us as children with softer, less noticeable regrowth lines. The principal idea being less is more when creating soft, natural looks. When I say highlighting I mean root to tip. Pre lightner placed softer at the root painted on the surface of the hair with the last inch or two saturated with product. We have also seen the raise of freehand colour in general and I like to call this creative balayage and this doesn’t go to the root at all. I usually use a combination of both with my clients but for brunettes not to many hitting the root, I just don’t like the look.
Whilst looking back through my work I realised that I had started using the term Bronde back in July 2012 thats three years ago! and it seems like this look is staying strong and current .
It,s always nice meeting new clients who have found you by word of mouth or on Instagram and Twitter, it shows me that social media is a powerful tool. it also lovely to start working with new models and watch them develop, and grow thats the beauty of life in the bubble . Recently I had two models pay me a visit that Ive never looked after before both brunette both lovely one with shorter hair who needed it to be a little darker the gorgeous Elenore and the other with longer hair who wanted a little Balayage the equally lovely Jessica. I’m always aware that brunettes shoot darker and Elenore wanted a more rich chocolate brown while Jessica wanted a touch of Balayage to give her a sun kissed look.
More and more directors are asking for authenticity from actresses when it comes to hair colour , and so wigs are being put to one side and the directors are asking for the hair to be coloured, great for our industry a little harsh on the actress if she’s going from one role to the next and different colours., But on screen it looks much more realistic than a wig even a good wig.I think they can always add pieces to the look but the majority is the actresses hair
last year I took Suki Waterhouse Brunette knowing full well that I would have to take her back blonde at the end of the film. Given this I wanted to make the transition as smooth as possible, and had hoped for a few weeks but literally had 2 days to turn it around. Life in the Bubble always throws you a curve
Often we see celebrities in the press during a colour transition and they look slightly imperfect but for the film or tv show its spot on, most colour changes/ corrections are better when going from dark to light gradually, i believe in leaving the hair in good condition , remember beautiful colour is really only achieved when the hair is in great condition (this is why we should always offer our professional shampoo and conditioning systems to clients) up sell!
My initial thought was to use Loreal professional Effesor which although I like you can’t do a pre lightening service on the same day so i would have needed more time for the balayage. with Effesor technically you need to do what they call a search cleanse and if thats not enough on to the deep cleanse , its all about finding out the true colour story that clients don’t always tell us and so you don’t damage the hair. You can then colour the hair but no pre lightener can be used that day so I would have needed at least 24 hours at least to rest. Alternatively I also like Goldwells colour remover system this removes the colour molecule and can be done in one or 2 applications i’ve had great success with it and its in my kit bag so to speak.