Remember when salon colour menus were a thrilling list of full-head, half head, T-bar, block colour (someone wake me, I’m drifting off to sleep at the very thought of it!). You’d choose your tone (blonde, brunette or red for the adventurous!) from a shade chart and sit back and wait for the foils to kick in.
Officially its summer and i’m supposed to be taking it easy, well that’s another story, August is actually busy it seems i’m in a mad rush before my vacation, Its exciting times though. This week i’ll be teaching a 1-2-1 Balayage class and he’s flown in from Singapore for it, so the word is spreading . Im also working on a new format for my presentations its always good to have a look back and tweek it all, trying to make it all a little more digital, and i’m expanding, next year i’m meeting up with some other colourists and I will selecting 1 or 2 of them to train up with my method and then working together teaching balayage, so we can hold bigger classes and reach more people because at the moment I can’t meet the demand. Its wonderful to see my little dream grow.
As much as I like a balayage look all soft and natural, there is no denying that I love a cool white all over blonde, I don’t know about you but I seem to be doing a lot of them at the moment, and loving every one of them. The trick of course is getting the hair pre lightend up to a very very pale yellow and even, before then glazing . I love platinium for Balayage but prefer the new studio blonde powder lightner for an all over blonde . For me I use either 20 or 30 volume developer depending on the base colour and try to encourage clients to come back at monthly interval because as we all know as soon as you go over that half inch regrowth then its time for a long regrowth application which is time consuming and annoying.
More and more directors are asking for authenticity from actresses when it comes to hair colour , and so wigs are being put to one side and the directors are asking for the hair to be coloured, great for our industry a little harsh on the actress if she’s going from one role to the next and different colours., But on screen it looks much more realistic than a wig even a good wig.I think they can always add pieces to the look but the majority is the actresses hair
last year I took Suki Waterhouse Brunette knowing full well that I would have to take her back blonde at the end of the film. Given this I wanted to make the transition as smooth as possible, and had hoped for a few weeks but literally had 2 days to turn it around. Life in the Bubble always throws you a curve
Often we see celebrities in the press during a colour transition and they look slightly imperfect but for the film or tv show its spot on, most colour changes/ corrections are better when going from dark to light gradually, i believe in leaving the hair in good condition , remember beautiful colour is really only achieved when the hair is in great condition (this is why we should always offer our professional shampoo and conditioning systems to clients) up sell!
My initial thought was to use Loreal professional Effesor which although I like you can’t do a pre lightening service on the same day so i would have needed more time for the balayage. with Effesor technically you need to do what they call a search cleanse and if thats not enough on to the deep cleanse , its all about finding out the true colour story that clients don’t always tell us and so you don’t damage the hair. You can then colour the hair but no pre lightener can be used that day so I would have needed at least 24 hours at least to rest. Alternatively I also like Goldwells colour remover system this removes the colour molecule and can be done in one or 2 applications i’ve had great success with it and its in my kit bag so to speak.
Language and the way we talk to our clients is so important, so when the folks at Glamour asked me to decode some of the techniques I was only too happy to help.
That was the lead question on the Marie Claire website this week and it was a great forum for me to discuss what a wonderful technique Balayage is, if you’ve not seen the article you can read it here at Marie Claire .One of the brilliant thing s happening this year is that the consumer press are using my images so it’s really thrilling to see that.