The Gray Issue

The Gray issue
In my experience as a hair colourist a thorough consultation is the key to a successful result. For me it is the most important and one of the most personal things I can do with my clients. A thorough and clear Consultation will help determine the right result before I actually start any bespoke colour service.

I generally use three categories when deciding what my client and I want to achieve from her colour.

1. Maintenance
The upkeep of a client’s colour is really important; it has to work with her lifestyle. For instance a client who wants to disguise their gray hair but doesn’t need or want to commit to a regimented hair colour regime will require a different approach to one who does want complete coverage. If this is not established in the consultation then a client could have a colour service that she cannot or does not want to maintain, she will end up unhappy, which is the last thing I want. It is vital that my clients are happy with every aspect of their hair.

2. The gray issue
I look at the clients hair to see if they have any gray hair and if it needs covering. If the answer to this question is yes, the next thing to establish with the client is if she is prepared to commit to a colour routine every 3-4 weeks. If she is then I will use a reflective colour on her hair which will have multi-dimensional tones and real shine, the result is a hair colour that is fresh and natural, with all signs of gray hair gone. If the gray hair is not too much of an issue for her then I will discuss blending te gray hair with a demi permanent colour or high/ low lights.

3. Changing or adapting Colour
The question to ask for a client whose hair has not yet got any gray but she has regular colour is: Is she happy with her hair colour or would she like a change or colour update as the seasons and styles change. The colour I will then work with for this client has to complement her age and skin tone.

Once the colour options have been established, the colour of the eyes needs to be considered to see if whether they are warm or cool in tone, you can do this yourself by studying the flecks in your eyes.

Warm tones are:
Blue eyes with yellow flecks blue/green
Brown eyes with golden brown /hazel or green yellow or orange flecks
Green eyes with yellow/orange flecks

Cool tones are:
Blue eyes with icy blue/clear gray flecks
Green eyes with cool green or yellow flecks
Brown eyes with deep brown, red/orange or olive green flecks

To quickly establish whether a skin tone is warm or cool look to see the jewelry usually worn, gold indicates a warm tone and silver a cool tone.

THEN we decide if the application

is going to be Balayage and Ombre, a global application of colour or both

… and then the fun begins mixing and applying a truly bespoke colour.

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